[{"content":"Bambu\u0026rsquo;s P1S pricing has stopped pretending to be a sale. The $699 MSRP is still printed on the product page with a line through it, but the actual price has been $399 through Black Friday, New Year\u0026rsquo;s, June, and again right now. That\u0026rsquo;s the price. The strikethrough is decoration.\nI\u0026rsquo;ve got about 1,200 hours on my own P1S at this point and it\u0026rsquo;s still printing like it did in week one. That\u0026rsquo;s worth stating up front, because it colors everything below: I\u0026rsquo;m not comparing spec sheets from the outside, and I\u0026rsquo;m also not neutral. The machine earned its keep.\nWhat\u0026rsquo;s more interesting is what happened to the combo pricing, because that\u0026rsquo;s where the real decision lives — and where most buying guides are still quoting stale numbers.\nThe actual prices, as of today Straight off Bambu\u0026rsquo;s US store:\nConfiguration Price Was P1S $399 $699 P1S AMS Combo (first-gen AMS) $549 $949 P1S AMS 2 Pro Combo $579 $1,124 P2S $549 — P2S AMS 2 Pro Combo $749 $799 Free shipping on all of them, plus 30-day price protection and 14-day returns.\nTwo things jump out of that table.\nFirst: never buy the first-gen AMS combo. It\u0026rsquo;s $549. The AMS 2 Pro combo is $579. Thirty dollars separates them, and the 2 Pro adds active filament drying, sealed storage, servo-driven feeding that\u0026rsquo;s meaningfully faster on color changes, and RFID spool sync. Thirty dollars. If you take one thing from this article, take that one — the $549 listing exists to make the $579 listing look good, and it works, because the $579 listing genuinely is good.\nSecond: never buy the AMS separately. A standalone AMS 2 Pro runs around $299 on Bambu\u0026rsquo;s store. P1S solo at $399 plus an AMS 2 Pro at $299 is $698. The combo is $579. You\u0026rsquo;re paying $180 for the AMS inside the bundle instead of $299. If there\u0026rsquo;s any chance you\u0026rsquo;ll want multicolor eventually, buy the combo now.\nSo the real question is $579 versus $749 That\u0026rsquo;s a $170 spread — wider than the $150 solo-price gap, because the P1S combo discount is deeper than the P2S combo discount. Everything below is about whether $170 is worth it.\nHere\u0026rsquo;s what the P2S actually adds over the P1S:\nThe extruder is the real upgrade. The P2S uses a PMSM servo extruder delivering roughly 8.5 kg of extrusion force — about 70% more than the P1S\u0026rsquo;s stepper design — and it samples position and resistance at 20 kHz. That\u0026rsquo;s fast enough to detect filament grinding or a partial clog while it\u0026rsquo;s happening rather than after you\u0026rsquo;ve come back to a bird\u0026rsquo;s nest. If you\u0026rsquo;ve ever lost an eight-hour print to a clog you didn\u0026rsquo;t catch, this is the feature you\u0026rsquo;re paying for.\nAuto Flow Dynamics Calibration. The P1S expects you to tune flow ratio manually for filament it doesn\u0026rsquo;t have a profile for. The P2S calibrates per-print. If you run a lot of off-brand filament — and if you\u0026rsquo;ve read anything else on this site, you know I do — this saves real fiddling.\nActive Airflow System. The P1S enclosure traps heat passively and lands around 40°C. The P2S actively manages chamber air and gets to roughly 50°C, with better exhaust for ABS and ASA. Also better for PLA in the other direction, because it can vent instead of cooking.\n5-inch touchscreen and a 1080p camera versus a 2.8-inch monochrome LCD and a camera that\u0026rsquo;s really only good for timelapses.\nHardened steel extruder and nozzle as standard, plus quick-swap nozzles and AI failure detection.\n600 mm/s versus 500 mm/s. Ignore this one. You\u0026rsquo;ll print at 300–400 mm/s on either machine for anything you care about. It\u0026rsquo;s headroom, not throughput.\nWhat\u0026rsquo;s identical: 256 × 256 × 256 mm build volume, 300°C hotend, CoreXY, enclosed chamber, auto bed leveling, vibration compensation, and the same material list up to CF composites. Neither one does PC or high-temp nylon reliably. Neither has LiDAR or dual nozzles.\nMy call At $170, this is genuinely close, and closer than it was a week ago — the P2S combo was $699 until recently, and at that price I would have said buy it without much hesitation.\nThe case for spending it is the extruder. Grinding detection and auto flow calibration are the two features that actually reduce failed prints, and failed prints are the real cost of this hobby, not the printer. If you leave prints running unattended, $170 to catch a clog before it becomes a bird\u0026rsquo;s nest is cheap.\nThe case against is that $170 is most of a spare AMS, or six or seven rolls of decent filament.\nBut I want to be straight about the counterargument, because it\u0026rsquo;s strong, and my own machine is the evidence for it. Twelve hundred hours in, my P1S has needed nozzles and build plate maintenance and nothing else. No motion system drift, no board failures, no mystery quality regression. That\u0026rsquo;s a three-year-old design with an enormous print-farm install base behind it, and it shows. At $579 with a current-generation AMS 2 Pro, nothing else in the market is close on price-per-capability.\nI\u0026rsquo;ll be honest about what my hours do and don\u0026rsquo;t prove, though. They\u0026rsquo;re strong evidence the P1S won\u0026rsquo;t fall apart on you. They\u0026rsquo;re not evidence the P2S extruder isn\u0026rsquo;t better at catching clogs, because I\u0026rsquo;ve never run one — the failures I\u0026rsquo;ve had were filament problems I caught manually, and a machine that catches them for me would have saved me time I didn\u0026rsquo;t count.\nSo:\nGet the P2S combo at $749 if you print a variety of filaments, you buy third-party spools, you\u0026rsquo;re going to leave prints running unattended, or this is your first printer and you\u0026rsquo;d rather the machine handle calibration than learn to do it yourself.\nGet the P1S AMS 2 Pro combo at $579 if you\u0026rsquo;re price-sensitive, you\u0026rsquo;re comfortable dialing in a flow ratio once per filament, or you\u0026rsquo;re adding a second machine to a setup where you already know your profiles. Manual flow calibration is ten minutes of work, not a skill barrier.\nGet the P1S solo at $399 if you genuinely only print single-color functional parts. That\u0026rsquo;s most of what comes off my machines, and $399 is the cheapest credible path to an enclosed CoreXY. Just be honest with yourself about whether \u0026ldquo;I\u0026rsquo;ll never need multicolor\u0026rdquo; survives contact with your first year of printing — because upgrading later costs $299 instead of $180.\nGet neither if you don\u0026rsquo;t need an enclosure. The A1 at $299 or the A1 Mini at $219 handles PLA and PETG for a lot less, and an enclosure you don\u0026rsquo;t need is a cooling problem, not a feature.\nTwo things to watch before you order Third-party pricing can beat Bambu direct. GigaParts ran the P2S combo at $599 with a coupon code earlier this month, which would flip the entire recommendation — at $599 versus $579 there\u0026rsquo;s no argument, you take the P2S. Check the usual deal aggregators before buying at list.\nConfirm which AMS is in the box if you\u0026rsquo;re buying anywhere other than Bambu\u0026rsquo;s own store. Plenty of retailer listings say \u0026ldquo;AMS Combo\u0026rdquo; without specifying generation, and a first-gen AMS combo priced like a 2 Pro combo is a bad deal that\u0026rsquo;s easy to walk into. On Bambu\u0026rsquo;s store the SKUs are labeled clearly. Elsewhere, read the included-items list.\nAlso worth noting: Bambu offers 30-day price protection. In a category where the number moves this often, that\u0026rsquo;s not a throwaway perk — if it drops after you order, claim it.\nPrices verified against Bambu Lab\u0026rsquo;s US store on July 20, 2026. This is a category where pricing changes monthly, so check the live cart before ordering.\n","permalink":"https://mizumakes.com/posts/bambu-p1s-sale-vs-p2s/","summary":"\u003cp\u003eBambu\u0026rsquo;s P1S pricing has stopped pretending to be a sale. The $699 MSRP is still printed on the product page with a line through it, but the actual price has been $399 through Black Friday, New Year\u0026rsquo;s, June, and again right now. That\u0026rsquo;s the price. The strikethrough is decoration.\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eI\u0026rsquo;ve got about 1,200 hours on my own P1S at this point and it\u0026rsquo;s still printing like it did in week one. That\u0026rsquo;s worth stating up front, because it colors everything below: I\u0026rsquo;m not comparing spec sheets from the outside, and I\u0026rsquo;m also not neutral. The machine earned its keep.\u003c/p\u003e","title":"The P1S AMS 2 Pro Combo Is $579. The P2S Combo Is $749. Here's Which One to Buy."},{"content":"If you\u0026rsquo;ve been loosely following Bambu Lab news, you already know they\u0026rsquo;ve been on a tear. In the span of about a year, they released multiple new machines, discontinued their flagship X1 Carbon, and just this week dropped a brand-new printer that undercut everyone\u0026rsquo;s price expectations. It\u0026rsquo;s a lot to keep up with — so here\u0026rsquo;s a breakdown of what\u0026rsquo;s actually out there right now and what each machine is trying to do.\nWhy So Many New Printers? Bambu\u0026rsquo;s original lineup — the X1C, P1P, P1S, A1 — dominated the prosumer FDM space for a couple of years. Fast prints, solid AMS integration, good software. But the X1C was still a single-nozzle machine when it came to actual extrusion, and multi-material printing via AMS had one well-known downside: filament purge waste (the \u0026ldquo;poop\u0026rdquo;). Bambu clearly decided it was time to solve that at the hardware level, and the result is a wave of dual-nozzle machines.\nThe H2D: Bambu\u0026rsquo;s \u0026ldquo;Personal Manufacturing\u0026rdquo; Statement Released in March 2025, the H2D was Bambu\u0026rsquo;s most ambitious machine to date. The tagline was \u0026ldquo;Rethink Personal Manufacturing\u0026rdquo; — and it wasn\u0026rsquo;t just marketing. This thing does 3D printing, laser engraving, drag-knife cutting, and pen drawing all from the same machine.\nKey specs:\nBuild volume: 350 × 320 × 325 mm (biggest Bambu has made) IDEX dual extrusion — independent carriages, so both nozzles move separately Max nozzle temp: 350°C (engineering materials like PPA-CF, PPS, PPS-CF) New AMS 2 Pro with active filament drying Speed: 1,000 mm/s toolhead, 20,000 mm/s² acceleration Optional 10W or 40W laser module Pricing:\nH2D base: $1,899 H2D AMS Combo: $2,199 H2D Laser Full Combo (10W): $2,799 H2D Laser Full Combo (40W): $3,499 The IDEX setup is the real headline. With two independent carriages, the H2D can print two identical objects simultaneously in mirror or clone mode, or run a dedicated support material nozzle with zero purging. That\u0026rsquo;s a genuinely different workflow from the AMS purge method.\nIf you primarily print large functional parts or want laser cutting in the same footprint as your printer, the H2D is hard to argue with. For most hobbyists though, it\u0026rsquo;s a lot of machine.\nThe H2D Pro: Enterprise Version In August 2025, Bambu released the H2D Pro at $3,799. It keeps all the H2D\u0026rsquo;s printing hardware — same build volume, same dual nozzle, same 350°C max temp — but adds enterprise network security features and a new tungsten carbide nozzle (HRA 90 hardness vs. HRA 74 on standard hardened steel). There\u0026rsquo;s also an upgraded toolhead cooling fan for better temperature stability.\nUnless you\u0026rsquo;re running a print farm or need network compliance for a corporate environment, the base H2D is the one to look at.\nThe H2S: Mid-Range Dual Nozzle The H2S arrived in late August 2025 at $1,249. It sits between the P-series and the H2D — 340 × 320 × 340 mm build volume, dual extrusion, optional laser and cutting module, closed-loop servo motor extruder, and active chamber heating up to 65°C. That chamber heating makes a real difference for ABS, ASA, and PA prints.\nIf you want the dual-nozzle workflow without the H2D\u0026rsquo;s footprint and price, the H2S is worth a serious look.\nThe X2D: Just Dropped, and It\u0026rsquo;s a Big Deal On April 14, 2026 — literally this week — Bambu officially retired the X1 Carbon and launched its replacement: the X2D.\nThe X1C had been the benchmark for serious desktop FDM since 2022. Fast, enclosed, reliable. When Bambu discontinued the entire X1 line, the obvious question was: what replaces it? The answer is the X2D, and the price surprised nearly everyone.\nPricing:\nX2D base: $649 X2D Combo (with AMS 2 Pro): $899 That\u0026rsquo;s $550 cheaper than the X1C Combo was at Kickstarter launch.\nKey specs:\nBuild volume: 256 × 256 × 260 mm (same footprint as X1C) Dual nozzle with mechanical switching — no extra motor on the toolhead Left nozzle: direct drive, up to 1,000 mm/s Right nozzle: Bowden setup, capped at 200 mm/s — designed for support material Max nozzle temp: 300°C Active chamber heating: 65°C Closed-loop servo motor extruder Full filament path AI detection LiDAR standard AMS 2 Pro in Combo version The dual-nozzle setup works differently than the H2D\u0026rsquo;s IDEX. Both nozzles share one toolhead — the left is direct drive (great for TPU and precision materials), the right is Bowden (designed mainly for support material or secondary color). Switching is purely mechanical, which keeps the head light and fast. Bambu says it survived over a million switching cycles in testing without any degradation.\nThe practical killer feature: clean support removal. By running a support material through the right nozzle — something that doesn\u0026rsquo;t bond to your main filament — supports peel off without tearing up your part surface. No purging, no waste tower.\nOne thing worth knowing: TPU and other flexible materials should go in the left direct-drive nozzle. The Bowden right nozzle isn\u0026rsquo;t built for those.\nEarly reviews from Tom\u0026rsquo;s Hardware and TechRadar both called the print quality and dual-nozzle system exceptional. For a first-time buyer or someone upgrading from a P1S, the X2D Combo at $899 is the printer to look at right now.\nHow the Current Lineup Stacks Up Printer Price (Base) Dual Nozzle Build Volume Best For A1 Mini Combo ~$399 No (AMS only) 180×180×180 mm Beginners, small prints P2S ~$549 No 256×256×256 mm Single-material workhorse X2D $649 Yes (shared toolhead) 256×256×260 mm Prosumer, dual-material X2D Combo $899 Yes + AMS 2 Pro 256×256×260 mm Best all-around buy right now H2S $1,249 Yes 340×320×340 mm Larger prints, engineering materials H2D $1,899 Yes (IDEX) 350×320×325 mm Large format, laser/cutting combo Should You Upgrade? If you have a P1S: The X2D Combo is a meaningful upgrade. You get dual extrusion, cleaner supports, and the AMS 2 Pro with better soft-filament handling. Whether that\u0026rsquo;s worth $899 depends on how often support removal is ruining your parts.\nIf you have an X1C: The X2D is a better machine at a lower price — dual extrusion in the same footprint, LiDAR standard. The X1C is now end-of-life (firmware support until May 2027, spare parts until March 2031), so there\u0026rsquo;s no reason to hold on unless yours is running perfectly for your current workflow.\nIf you print a lot of large functional parts: Look at the H2S or H2D depending on budget. The bigger build volume and higher chamber temps make a real difference for engineering filaments.\nIf you want laser cutting too: The H2D Laser Combo is genuinely impressive — laser engraving and drag-knife cutting in the same machine as your printer is a useful workshop setup. It\u0026rsquo;s just not cheap.\nBottom Line Bambu Lab has essentially replaced their entire prosumer lineup in 12 months. The X2D is the headline right now — a compact dual-nozzle machine at a price that makes the old X1C look expensive. The H2D family handles large-format and professional work. The H2S fills the gap in between.\nIf you\u0026rsquo;re buying a Bambu machine in 2026, start with the X2D Combo. It\u0026rsquo;s hard to find a better all-around machine at $899.\n","permalink":"https://mizumakes.com/posts/bambu-lab-new-printers-2026/","summary":"\u003cp\u003eIf you\u0026rsquo;ve been loosely following Bambu Lab news, you already know they\u0026rsquo;ve been on a tear. In the span of about a year, they released multiple new machines, discontinued their flagship X1 Carbon, and just this week dropped a brand-new printer that undercut everyone\u0026rsquo;s price expectations. It\u0026rsquo;s a lot to keep up with — so here\u0026rsquo;s a breakdown of what\u0026rsquo;s actually out there right now and what each machine is trying to do.\u003c/p\u003e","title":"Bambu Lab's New Printer Lineup: H2D, H2S, and the Brand-New X2D Explained"},{"content":"I\u0026rsquo;m Jared — an engineer based in Southern California who likes to make things that actually work.\nMy day job is in engineering, but the garage is where the real projects happen. I run a Bambu Lab P1S with AMS and spend more time than I probably should designing parts in SolidWorks, tweaking print settings, and figuring out why something failed so the next one doesn\u0026rsquo;t.\nWhat MizuMakes Is MizuMakes is where I document what I\u0026rsquo;m building and what I\u0026rsquo;ve learned. The focus is practical — functional prints, useful guides, honest gear recommendations. Not aesthetic showcases or theoretical deep dives, just stuff that works and why.\nWhat I Print Mostly functional parts. Bike components, workshop tools, things for the house, electromechanical projects. If there\u0026rsquo;s a problem that a 3D printed part can solve better than buying something, that\u0026rsquo;s the project.\nThe Gear I run a Bambu Lab P1S with AMS for multi-color and convenience, and design everything in SolidWorks. For filament I mostly use Polymaker, HATCHBOX, and ELEGOO — good quality, available on Amazon next day, no need to pay Bambu prices for most prints.\nYouTube I also post on YouTube at @MizuMakes3D — build videos, project walkthroughs, and the occasional filament test.\n","permalink":"https://mizumakes.com/about/","summary":"\u003cp\u003eI\u0026rsquo;m Jared — an engineer based in Southern California who likes to make things that actually work.\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMy day job is in engineering, but the garage is where the real projects happen. I run a Bambu Lab P1S with AMS and spend more time than I probably should designing parts in SolidWorks, tweaking print settings, and figuring out why something failed so the next one doesn\u0026rsquo;t.\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 id=\"what-mizumakes-is\"\u003eWhat MizuMakes Is\u003c/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMizuMakes is where I document what I\u0026rsquo;m building and what I\u0026rsquo;ve learned. The focus is practical — functional prints, useful guides, honest gear recommendations. Not aesthetic showcases or theoretical deep dives, just stuff that works and why.\u003c/p\u003e","title":"About"},{"content":"If you just got your first 3D printer and opened Amazon to buy filament, you were probably hit with dozens of options immediately. But two names keep coming up: PLA and PETG.\nThe good news is that these are the two best filaments to start with — and for most people, they\u0026rsquo;re the only two you\u0026rsquo;ll ever need. Here\u0026rsquo;s what they actually are, how they\u0026rsquo;re different, and which one to reach for first.\nWhy PLA and PETG Are the Default Starting Points Before diving into the differences, it\u0026rsquo;s worth understanding why everyone recommends these two materials over everything else.\nThe short answer: they work on any printer, including open-air machines, with very few downsides.\nMaterials like ABS, ASA, and Nylon require an enclosed print chamber to manage temperature during printing. Without one, the print cools unevenly, warps off the bed, and often fails entirely. PLA and PETG don\u0026rsquo;t have that problem. Their lower internal stresses during cooling mean they stay put even on a completely open-frame printer like an Ender 3 or Bambu Lab A1 Mini.\nThis makes them the universal starting point — no enclosure, no special setup, no drama.\nWhat Is PLA? PLA (Polylactic Acid) is the most popular 3D printing filament in the world, and for good reason. It\u0026rsquo;s made from plant-based materials like cornstarch, prints at low temperatures (190–220°C), and is about as forgiving as filament gets.\nPLA is great for:\nDecorative prints and models Prototypes and test fits Anything that stays indoors Your first 100 prints Where PLA falls short:\nLow heat resistance — leaves a car in summer and it might warp (~60°C softening point) More brittle than PETG under impact Not great for outdoor use long-term My go-to PLA picks on Amazon:\nPolymaker Panchroma Matte PLA (formerly PolyTerra) — matte finish, great for display pieces and anything you want to paint. Eco-friendly cardboard spool, prints up to 300mm/s. HATCHBOX PLA — 40,000+ reviews, 4.7 stars, the most proven filament on Amazon. Extremely consistent, ±0.03mm accuracy. $28.00/kg. ELEGOO PLA — Amazon\u0026rsquo;s Choice, ±0.02mm accuracy, cardboard spool, 2K+ bought last month. Best value at $13.99/kg. What Is PETG? PETG (Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol) sits between PLA and engineering-grade materials. It\u0026rsquo;s tougher, more flexible, and more heat resistant than PLA — but it still prints without an enclosure, which is what makes it such a useful upgrade.\nThink of it as PLA\u0026rsquo;s more capable sibling. Slightly more involved to dial in, but not dramatically so.\nPETG is great for:\nFunctional parts that need to handle stress Brackets, clips, tool holders, enclosures Parts that see moderate heat (up to ~75–80°C) Anything that needs a bit of give rather than snapping Where PETG falls short:\nStrings more than PLA — you\u0026rsquo;ll need to dial in retraction Slightly more sensitive to moisture (store it sealed) Doesn\u0026rsquo;t sand or paint as cleanly as PLA My go-to PETG picks on Amazon:\nPolymaker PETG — high speed up to 300mm/s, warp free, excellent layer adhesion, ships with exact hex color codes. 4.6 stars. $22.99/kg. HATCHBOX PETG — Amazon\u0026rsquo;s Overall Pick, ±0.03mm accuracy, 4.6 stars / 3,800+ reviews. Reliable and consistent. $26.00/kg. ELEGOO Rapid PETG — high speed up to 600mm/s, ±0.02mm accuracy, Amazon\u0026rsquo;s Choice, 1K+ bought last month. Best value PETG at $13.99/kg. PLA vs PETG: Head-to-Head PLA PETG Ease of printing ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ ⭐⭐⭐⭐ Enclosure required No No Heat resistance ~60°C ~75–80°C Strength Medium Higher Flexibility Brittle Slightly flexible Stringing Low Moderate Best for Decorative, prototypes Functional parts Typical price $14–28/kg $20–25/kg Both work on any open-air printer. That\u0026rsquo;s the key takeaway — you don\u0026rsquo;t need to spend more on an enclosed machine just to use better materials at this level.\nWhich One Should You Use? Start with PLA if:\nThis is your first or second roll of filament You\u0026rsquo;re printing models, figures, or anything decorative You want the easiest possible experience Switch to PETG if:\nThe part needs to handle load, stress, or impact It\u0026rsquo;ll be near a heat source (car interior, near windows) You\u0026rsquo;re printing tool holders, brackets, or anything functional Not sure? Default to PLA. It\u0026rsquo;s easier to work with and you can always reprint in PETG once you know what the part needs to do.\nWhat About PLA+? PLA+ is worth a quick mention. It\u0026rsquo;s a modified PLA blend with improved toughness and reduced brittleness — it bridges the gap between standard PLA and PETG. If you find yourself wanting something stronger than PLA but don\u0026rsquo;t want to deal with PETG\u0026rsquo;s stringing yet, PLA+ is a solid middle ground.\nELEGOO Rapid PLA+ is a great pick here — tougher formula, high-speed capable, and still very easy to print.\nMy Recommended Filament Picks (Summary) Pick Material Best For Price Polymaker Panchroma Matte PLA PLA Display pieces, painting ~$22/kg HATCHBOX PLA PLA Reliable everyday printing $28/kg ELEGOO PLA PLA Best budget option $13.99/kg Polymaker PETG PETG Functional parts, color accuracy $22.99/kg HATCHBOX PETG PETG Reliable all-rounder $26/kg ELEGOO Rapid PETG PETG Best value, high-speed $13.99/kg These are all available on Amazon with Prime shipping — most arrive next day.\nFrequently Asked Questions Can I print PLA and PETG on a Bambu Lab P1S? Yes, absolutely. Both work perfectly on the P1S. You can use third-party filament without any issues — see my article on why I don\u0026rsquo;t always use Bambu Lab filament for the full breakdown.\nDo I need a heated bed for PLA? Not always for small prints, but 50–60°C bed temp helps with adhesion and reduces warping on larger parts. PETG generally needs a heated bed at 70–85°C.\nIs PLA food safe? Standard PLA is technically food-safe material, but the printing process introduces layer lines and potential contamination points. Don\u0026rsquo;t use 3D printed parts for food contact without a food-safe coating.\nWhat\u0026rsquo;s the difference between PLA and PLA+? PLA+ uses modified binders that improve impact resistance and reduce brittleness. It\u0026rsquo;s slightly harder to print than standard PLA but still doesn\u0026rsquo;t need an enclosure. Think of it as a stepping stone toward PETG.\nWhen should I move to ASA or ABS? When you need parts that live outdoors long-term (ASA) or need high heat resistance and structural strength (ABS). Both require an enclosed printer. Read my full guide: What is ASA Filament? When to Stop Using PETG and When to Use ABS: A Beginner\u0026rsquo;s Guide.\nAll product links are Amazon affiliate links. I only recommend filaments I\u0026rsquo;ve actually used — see why I don\u0026rsquo;t always buy Bambu Lab filament for my full take on third-party options.\n","permalink":"https://mizumakes.com/posts/pla-vs-petg/","summary":"\u003cp\u003eIf you just got your first 3D printer and opened Amazon to buy filament, you were probably hit with dozens of options immediately. But two names keep coming up: \u003cstrong\u003ePLA\u003c/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003ePETG\u003c/strong\u003e.\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe good news is that these are the two best filaments to start with — and for most people, they\u0026rsquo;re the only two you\u0026rsquo;ll ever need. Here\u0026rsquo;s what they actually are, how they\u0026rsquo;re different, and which one to reach for first.\u003c/p\u003e","title":"PLA vs PETG: Which 3D Printing Filament Should You Use?"},{"content":"If you\u0026rsquo;ve been printing in PETG and it\u0026rsquo;s working great, you might wonder why anyone would bother switching. The answer is simple: put a PETG part in direct sunlight for a few months and see what happens.\nPETG doesn\u0026rsquo;t handle UV exposure well. It yellows, gets brittle, and eventually fails. For anything that lives outside — a garden fixture, a car mount, a mailbox bracket — you need something built for it. That\u0026rsquo;s ASA.\nWhat Is ASA Filament? ASA stands for Acrylonitrile Styrene Acrylate. It\u0026rsquo;s chemically similar to ABS — same strength, similar print settings — but with one critical difference: it\u0026rsquo;s specifically engineered to resist UV radiation and weathering.\nWhere ABS uses butadiene rubber in its chemistry (which breaks down under UV exposure), ASA swaps that for acrylic ester rubber. That single change makes ASA dramatically more stable in sunlight. It won\u0026rsquo;t yellow, won\u0026rsquo;t get brittle, and won\u0026rsquo;t lose its mechanical properties after months outdoors.\nThink of ASA as ABS that actually belongs outside.\nASA vs PETG: What\u0026rsquo;s the Difference? If you\u0026rsquo;re coming from PLA and PETG, here\u0026rsquo;s how ASA fits in:\nPETG ASA UV resistance Poor Excellent Heat resistance ~75–80°C ~95–100°C Weather resistance Moderate Excellent Strength Good Good Ease of printing ⭐⭐⭐⭐ ⭐⭐⭐ Enclosure required No Yes (recommended) Typical price $14–26/kg $20–26/kg The two big wins for ASA: UV resistance and higher heat deflection temperature (~95°C vs PETG\u0026rsquo;s ~75°C). That heat resistance matters more than you\u0026rsquo;d think — a part sitting in a car in summer can easily see 80°C+, which is right at PETG\u0026rsquo;s limit.\nThe One Catch: You Need an Enclosure This is the main reason people stick with PETG longer than they should. ASA, like ABS, warps badly on open-air printers. The temperature differential between the hot nozzle and ambient air causes the part to curl off the bed, split at layer lines, or delaminate entirely.\nAn enclosed printer solves this by keeping the ambient temperature elevated (~40–50°C inside the chamber), which reduces thermal stress during printing.\nIf you\u0026rsquo;re on a Bambu Lab P1S or X1C, you\u0026rsquo;re already set — both are fully enclosed. If you\u0026rsquo;re on an open-frame printer like an Ender 3, you\u0026rsquo;ll need to add an enclosure before printing ASA reliably.\nThis is the natural upgrade path: PLA and PETG get you far on any printer. When you need outdoor-rated parts, ASA requires the enclosed setup — which is when an enclosed printer like the P1S starts to pay for itself.\nASA Print Settings ASA prints similarly to ABS. General starting points:\nNozzle temp: 240–260°C Bed temp: 80–100°C Enclosure: Required for best results Cooling fan: Off or minimal (10–20%) Bed surface: PEI or garolite works well The low cooling fan setting is important — ASA needs to cool slowly and evenly to avoid warping and layer separation. This is the opposite of PLA where you want maximum cooling.\nWhen Should You Switch from PETG to ASA? Use ASA when your part:\nLives outdoors permanently (garden, yard, exterior fixtures) Is exposed to direct sunlight regularly Goes in a car (dashboard, exterior mounts, antenna brackets) Needs to handle temperatures above 75°C Needs to survive rain, humidity, and temperature cycling Stick with PETG when:\nThe part stays indoors UV exposure is minimal You don\u0026rsquo;t have an enclosure yet Print ease matters more than outdoor performance My ASA Picks on Amazon OVERTURE ASA — Amazon\u0026rsquo;s Overall Pick, 4.6 stars / 2,100+ reviews, 2K+ bought last month, ±0.02mm accuracy. Prime overnight. Best all-around choice at $19.99/kg.\nELEGOO ASA — UV \u0026amp; weather resistant, high impact strength, ±0.02mm accuracy, 600+ bought last month. Best value at $19.99/kg.\nPolymaker ASA — 4.5 stars / 2,100+ reviews, excellent batch consistency, cardboard spool. Polymaker\u0026rsquo;s quality control is consistently good across their whole lineup. $25.99/kg.\nPick Best For Price OVERTURE ASA Best overall, highest rated $19.99/kg ELEGOO ASA Best value $19.99/kg Polymaker ASA Premium consistency $25.99/kg All available on Amazon with Prime shipping.\nFrequently Asked Questions Does ASA smell when printing? Yes — similar to ABS, ASA produces fumes during printing. Print in a ventilated area or with an enclosure that has a HEPA/activated carbon filter. Don\u0026rsquo;t print ASA in a bedroom or living space without ventilation.\nCan I print ASA on a Bambu Lab P1S? Yes, the P1S is one of the best printers for ASA. The full enclosure manages chamber temperature well, and Bambu has pre-tuned profiles for ASA that work reliably out of the box.\nHow long will ASA last outdoors? ASA is rated for multi-year outdoor use. Real-world results vary by UV intensity and climate, but properly printed ASA parts typically last 3–5+ years outdoors without significant degradation.\nCan I use ASA for car parts? Yes — ASA\u0026rsquo;s ~95°C heat deflection temperature makes it suitable for most automotive applications that aren\u0026rsquo;t directly on or near the engine. Exterior trim, antenna bases, roof rack accessories, and interior parts that see sun exposure are all good candidates.\nWhat\u0026rsquo;s the difference between ASA and ABS? Both are similar in strength and print settings. The key difference is UV resistance — ABS degrades under prolonged UV exposure, yellowing and becoming brittle. ASA is specifically formulated to resist UV. If the part lives outside, always choose ASA over ABS.\nWhat\u0026rsquo;s Next in the Filament Series PLA vs PETG: Which Should You Use? — start here if you\u0026rsquo;re new to filament When to Use ABS: Strength, Heat, and When It Makes Sense (coming soon) Why I Don\u0026rsquo;t Always Use Bambu Lab Filament (coming soon) All product links are Amazon affiliate links. I only recommend filaments I\u0026rsquo;ve actually researched and would use myself.\n","permalink":"https://mizumakes.com/posts/what-is-asa-filament/","summary":"\u003cp\u003eIf you\u0026rsquo;ve been printing in PETG and it\u0026rsquo;s working great, you might wonder why anyone would bother switching. The answer is simple: \u003cstrong\u003eput a PETG part in direct sunlight for a few months and see what happens.\u003c/strong\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePETG doesn\u0026rsquo;t handle UV exposure well. It yellows, gets brittle, and eventually fails. For anything that lives outside — a garden fixture, a car mount, a mailbox bracket — you need something built for it. That\u0026rsquo;s ASA.\u003c/p\u003e","title":"What is ASA Filament? When to Stop Using PETG for Outdoor Prints"},{"content":"I\u0026rsquo;m Jared — an engineer who likes to tinker. I mostly print practical stuff: bike parts, things for my kids, fixes around the house, desk organization, and the occasional electromechanical project. Here\u0026rsquo;s what I\u0026rsquo;m running.\nPrinter Bambu Lab P1S with AMS\nI\u0026rsquo;ve had it for about a year and it\u0026rsquo;s been solid. Coming from the tinkering side of the hobby, the P1S felt almost too easy at first — but I\u0026rsquo;ve learned to appreciate just hitting print and having it work.\nThe AMS makes multi-color prints easy, but honestly I use it more for convenience. I can load up a few rolls and not worry about swapping filament mid-print.\nNozzles I have the full set: 0.2mm, 0.4mm, 0.6mm, and 0.8mm.\nThe 0.6mm is my go-to. It speeds up prints significantly — 30-40% faster on a lot of models — and unless I really need fine detail, most stuff still looks good. Layer lines are slightly more visible but for functional prints, who cares.\nThe 0.2mm comes out for small detailed parts where I need crisp edges. The 0.8mm is great for big functional prints where strength matters more than looks.\nFilament I mostly print in PLA, PETG, ASA, and TPU. PLA for quick stuff, PETG for anything that needs to handle heat or stress, ASA for outdoor parts where UV exposure is a factor, and TPU when I need flexibility. I\u0026rsquo;ll get into specific brands in future posts.\nWhat\u0026rsquo;s Next I\u0026rsquo;m documenting projects here and on YouTube at @MizuMakes3D. More soon.\n","permalink":"https://mizumakes.com/posts/my-3d-printing-setup/","summary":"\u003cp\u003eI\u0026rsquo;m Jared — an engineer who likes to tinker. I mostly print practical stuff: bike parts, things for my kids, fixes around the house, desk organization, and the occasional electromechanical project. Here\u0026rsquo;s what I\u0026rsquo;m running.\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 id=\"printer\"\u003ePrinter\u003c/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBambu Lab P1S with AMS\u003c/strong\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg alt=\"My P1S with AMS\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"/posts/my-3d-printing-setup/printer.jpg\"\u003e\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eI\u0026rsquo;ve had it for about a year and it\u0026rsquo;s been solid. Coming from the tinkering side of the hobby, the P1S felt almost too easy at first — but I\u0026rsquo;ve learned to appreciate just hitting print and having it work.\u003c/p\u003e","title":"My 3D Printing Setup"},{"content":"The Problem This is how I used to store my wires for soldering - tossed in a plastic container, tangled together, and generally a mess. Not great when you\u0026rsquo;re trying to work efficiently.\nI needed a better solution, so I designed and 3D printed one.\nThe Solution I created a simple wire holder that mounts above my soldering station and keeps multiple spools organized and ready to use.\nThe design consists of two main components:\nEnd caps that clamp onto a mounting surface A rod that holds the wire spools and allows them to spin freely as you pull wire Design Process I drew a couple models in SolidWorks and got right to printing. The design is intentionally simple - two end caps and a rod that holds your wire spools.\nEverything\u0026rsquo;s designed to print without supports and assemble in minutes.\nFor my specific setup, I\u0026rsquo;m mounting it to a crossbar above my soldering station. However, the end caps can be easily customized for any mounting surface - shelves, the wall, or a workbench.\nThe Print I printed these in PLA. Since this lives in my garage workshop and doesn\u0026rsquo;t see high temperatures, PLA works perfectly fine.\nThe parts were designed to print without supports, making post-processing minimal. End caps came out good, and the rod looks clean too.\nAssembly Assembly is straightforward:\nFirst, screw one end cap to the rod. Load up your spools.\nSlide everything onto the mounting rod. Lock the other end cap in place. Clamp both sides down, and you\u0026rsquo;re done.\nTotal assembly time is just a few minutes.\nIn Use Once installed, you\u0026rsquo;ve got organized wire that feeds smoothly right where you need it.\nThe spools spin freely as you pull wire for soldering, and everything stays in place exactly where you mounted it.\nIt\u0026rsquo;s one of those simple prints that solves a specific problem and makes workshop time more efficient.\nCustomization While this version is designed for my rack system, the beauty of 3D printing is that you can modify the end caps for your specific needs. Whether you want to mount it to a shelf edge, directly to a wall, or clamp it to a workbench, the basic design can be adapted.\nWhat\u0026rsquo;s Next? This is the first project on MizuMakes, and there\u0026rsquo;s more coming — follow along on YouTube at @MizuMakes3D.\n","permalink":"https://mizumakes.com/posts/wire-holder/","summary":"A customizable wire spool holder that mounts above your workspace and keeps all your soldering wire organized and accessible.","title":"3D Printed Wire Holder for Soldering Station"}]